Monkey-onsen

It is getting colder with each day. The sun in my window is barely enough to sustain the basil, so I decided to end their season in a final harvest. The tomatoes are already past this point, as they decided to end their own season weeks ago. I cut the remaining basil leaves and cooked an early "thanksgiving" Pasta-with-Pesto dish for some colleagues, that could not be beaten. So now that the warm season is officially over, I am sitting in my warm room, thinking about warmer times.

It was only a month ago, that it was warm enough to go up into the woods with a towel, on the search for the infamous spring where monkeys would mingle with the human population. My friend DoZi and I took a five-hour train ride upon ourselves to go up to the monkey park near Yudanaka in Northern Nagano. We had to leave as early as we could, at six in the morning, since I had to be back for work at 4pm. The ride was simple enough, and from where the bus dropped us off, we could walk up the Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Like in any other natural park, there were trails between woods, but the only monkeys we saw were the ones on the signs, keeping up our hopes that we might see some bathing ones at some point. After a half-an-hour walk we finally came to a little stream running down the hills. The water was nice and warm, which was one more good sign. Still, we couldn't see any monkeys. Where the stream joined a bigger one, we could see a few houses between the trees. That must be the onsen, we thought.

When we got down to the valley, there seemed to be a few pools of water, and even a jet of hot steam was shooting into the air. We were not sure if this was what we were looking for, as no signs seemed to indicate either monkeys, or onsen, not to mention a monkey-onsen. Suddenly we saw them! They were lazing around on the bridge, grooming each other's brownish-gray fur. We knew we had arrived.

We walked up the path to a building that seemed to sell tickets of sorts. It was only 500 yen to get in, but the girl at the counter reacted to our mention of an onsen quite startled: "This is not an onsen. It's for the monkeys!" Okay, sure... we thought, and walked through the gates. Someone had told me that there was an onsen where we could bathe, as well as observe the snow monkeys in their natural habitat, and I was determined to get both.

The monkey park had no fences or walls, so the animals of every species could walk freely in and out. Those who looked like they had 500 yen on them were expected the courtesy of paying the entry fee, but other than that there were no limitations whatsoever. Surprisingly, past the ticket office there was a multitude of monkeys laying around on the rocks, or in the shade. Some bigger, some smaller. Real little ones were jumping around on the branches, others were looking for food among the rocks. Some of them were even bathing in the onsen.

So there WAS an onsen! What was that little lady talking about? There was a pool of natural hot water in the middle of the monkey park, and a stream of cooler water was running nearby. They even have their own web cam, for anyone who is interested in checking out the bathing monkeys (almost) live: www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.kp What a luxury for the monkeys. And what about us? We'd been looking forward to bathing all morning! Our desire to sit in the water was only surpassed by our envy of the spoiled monkeys.


We had not come all this way, just to go home without bathing. Indeed, the temperature was wonderfully soothing. It was like heaven on earth. In the water we got to know what it was like to be a creature in God's garden... for about ten minutes. That's how long it took for our pictures to be transmitted around the world, including to the little house where we had paid our entry fee. Suddenly a big guardian-type park employee, armed with a big net, came to chase us out of the water. He didn't say a word, at least not in English, but the the ticket-lady with him kept reminding us of the same thing she had told us earlier: Though this water was an onsen indeed, it was intended for the monkeys, not for us. What a disappointment.

We put on some clothes, and started to leave the park, when we saw the outside onsen on the other side of the stream. Ah-ha, so that's the pool for the Homo sapiens bathers. To get there we had to cross the bridge guarded by the two monkeys, pay another 500 yen at the door, and promise to abide by the standard rules of the onsen. That is to shower first, and not pull the plug once we were done. We happily agreed to everything. The onsen itself was the least developed one I'd been to, but the experience was superb. The water wonderfully soothing, we could overlook the valley, and even see humans and monkeys strolling around. It was like heaven on earth.

Before we decided that we had soaked long enough, a large monkey came and walked along the edge between the pool and the cliff side. How close to nature we were...! On the way out we saw a sign, reminding bathers that sometimes monkeys might come into the outside pool. Okay, the one we saw sure was close enough. So apparently THEY can come into the pool for humans. But WE can't go into theirs... Try to figure that one out! Nevertheless, the monkey park left a good impression, and I decided to return in the Winter, when all the monkeys are bound to sit in the nice warm water.

Visitors From Far Away

Summer's gone. The air is getting cooler so I had to close all my windows. For the first time in months. The leaves are still green, but it is just a matter of weeks before we find ourselves the short-lived season of Fall. This is the time of going inside, and making myself comfortable with a delicious pasta dinner and a glass of wine from last year's harvest. This is the time of remembering the last few weeks of joy and adventure, when I got to enjoy the full taste of late Summer, visiting all the famous sites in my area once again, and then again: I had visitors!

The first person to visit me from far away countries was my dear Elba from Mexico, my other half... my better half, as some would put it. I went down to Tokyo to meet her, under the huge lantern in front of the famous temple in Asakusa. Unfortunately, as it turned out, there was more than one huge lantern in the area, so it took a few minutes until the smarter one of us figured out where to find -me. We spent the next two days visiting important places, such as the National Museum and the gardens outside the imperial palace, and going shopping in the crazier parts of town, such as Harajuku and Shimokita.

We got into Shiojiri late Monday evening, and since I had to work the next days, we didn't do too much. Instead we were looking forward to the weekend, for which I had planned a lovely hike up Takabochi, and an excursion to see Matsumoto... maybe even Kiso. On Saturday I could organize a bike for her, so we took the opportunity to visit the Jomon site in Hiraide before I had to teach my first class.

Hiraide was a full success. Elba loved the museum, the Jomon houses, and enjoyed riding my bike down the hills. Unfortunately, as life with her cruel irony wants it, on the way back home she had an accident. We were going under a railroad bridge, and she tried to cross from the street to the sidewalk painted in bright yellow, hitting the curb and having a hard fall onto the pavement. As it turns out, all this happened in front of the house of a chiropractic doctor, who immediately took care of her. Both of her palms were stripped off the skin, she had a nasty bruise on her hip, and a pain in her elbow and ankle. We made it back home, where she collapsed on the couch from pain and exhaustion.

Needless to say, the hike to Takabochi was canceled. But with her ankle, even Matsumoto was no option. I went out to find the strongest pain killers on the over-the-counter market, and whatever else I could find for bruises, tendons, muscles, etc. It was a relief to see that she was 
getting better with each day. Throughout the following days our walks got longer and longer. However, it was not so much the touristy attractions that attracted us anyway, so staying in didn't bother us so much.

Eventually, however, wanted to get out, and Elba's foot was doing better too, we decided to go to Matsumoto on Sunday, when my friend Dozi was supposed to arrive. To be exact, he was supposed to arrive a day later, on Monday, but due to the time difference he managed to lose a day, having to leave his hostel a day early. Never mind, we were gonna pick him up after our walk in Matsumoto. It was lovely to go for a walk again, through the streets of gorgeous Matsumoto, into the castle of the crows, then down touristy frog-street. On the way back to the station we went shopping once again for a cute top-sort of thing, before catching the train to Shiojiri, where Dozi was waiting for us.

Dozi is one of my oldest friends. We went to school together, and later to various hitchhiking trips all around Europe. So coming to Japan meant a certain challenge: we had to top all the previous experiences. But before we could embark on adventures marked by madness, I had to consider my priority, who was enjoying her last days with me. I decided that a trip to Kiso Narai was going to be the best place for both of my visitors. Indeed it was. We went to buy many lacquer ware items, and other nice gifts. We enjoyed the rain from an old fashioned café, and took the train back to Shiojiri in time for my class at night.

For the last night together I organized an outing to the local Okonomi-yaki place, where you have to cook your own food on the hot-plate set into the tables. It was an experience for all of us. Very tasty, very enjoyable. My boss Takashi, and his brother Naoki helped us prepare the food in its proper way. Eventually we went to a nearby isakaya for a few more drinks and smokes. Finally we went home and stayed up until late in the morning when the taxi came to pick up Elba and take her to the airport, far away from me. And I didn't do anything to stop it! I still can't forgive myself....

Hiroshima

After working many long and hard hours, days, weeks and months, finally I got a little time to relax, take a trip, and catch my breath before jumping into another long stretch of seemingly endless workdays. A whole five days of vacation, plus two days of weekend make a total of seven days. (Yeah!) This is also a part of Japanese culture, so I better appreciate the experience! Because this is how it's gonna be, and I have no say in the matter. The only thing I could do is to leave and never come back, which I am certainly gonna do once the time for it has come in February.

Until then, I want to make the most of every minute here... or maybe not. After all, each time I embark on a journey, I leave behind endless other options. This summer vacation was not any different. My alternative plan was to hike across the mountains to the sea, cross over to Sado Island, and attend the Earth Festival that was scheduled for just this past weekend. As it turns out, however, I decided to not to go. The festival was the first thing that I had to abandon, as I had to back for work on Friday and Saturday, and I had I tried to take these days off, it would have cost me 17000 yen in income. Also, the weather had been quite inconstant the weeks before the vacation, and I didn't feel like hiking and camping in the rain.

Normally I like to think I am not such a pussy, but the weekend before I was gonna set out, I went down to the rocks of Agematsu in the Kiso valley for a swim. The entire week had been so hot and humid that while my body was teaching in a sweltering classroom, my mind was jumping off the cliffs into the cool water. When we arrived into Agematsu, it was drizzling, and by the time we made it to the swimming place, it was pouring. It didn't even stop for quite a while, and even then, the sun barely came out before setting behind the mountains.

The other reason that prompted me to chose Hiroshima instead, was the only opportunity to visit my good friend Lennart, whom I hadn't seen in two and a half years. We served together in the public service in Berlin, where he was thought to be the one who would never make it, due to his almost chronic laziness. Whatever that means... Looking back, I don't know if any of us really made it, but the way things are right now, he seems to be the happiest person in Hiroshima, if not in all East Asia. Just like me, he's making a living as a language teacher, though unlike me he seems to be genuinely enjoying it. He is living in a vibrant, youthful and energetic city, with a lovely girlfriend, in love. Three years ago all this would have been crazy fiction.

Hiroshima is about three hours by train from where I live, if you get a ticket on the shinkanzen, the famous bullet-train. For me, it took about thirteen hours, as I bought the less famous, but much cheaper seishun 18 kipu. This ticket lets you go as far you can, all through Japan, for five days, only on local trains. The price was fantastic, especially since I still have three rides left. And I got to see the train-tracks of half of Honshu island. Yet, it was worth it.

Hiroshima itself is an amazing city. I was worried about the weather, as it promised to be hot and humid. In reality it was hotter and more humid than I'd expected, but there was a constant breeze from the sea, that kept the sky dark blue. It was all good. I did the usual touristy things: I walked through peace-park, saw the famous bombed-out dome, left over as a reminder o the nuclear devastation the city experienced, and saw the underground museum of the atomic bombing. I did not go into the big museum where certain relics were exhibited, such as molten glassware, and dented helmets.

The multitude of people standing in line outside scared me more than anything in the exhibit cases could have. Instead, I enjoyed a picnic with Lennart and Miki in peace-park. From there we could overlook everything, from the little girl's statue who had failed in her attempt to fold 10,000 paper cranes in order to be cured of leukemia, to the eternal flame that won't be extinguished until all nuclear weapons are eliminated (or until Japan gets to build their own A-bomb).


I visited Hiroshima castle, which had to completely rebuilt after the bombing, and thus looks as fresh and new as the whole city. It was a very pleasant experience just to stroll down the streets, or crossing the bridges over the many rivers. Of course I had to do some geocaching too, quite successfully. One was hidden just by the baseball stadium, where the Hiroshima Carps had a game against the Tokyo Giants. The area was overrun by fans of both teams, so this one cache remained undiscovered. But I felt good as I could ask one fan whether the Giants had won. How else should it be, of course it was the Carps who kicked their ass... maybe because I happened to be there? This reminded me of the time when the Arizona Diamondbacks won the World Series from the Yankees, just when I happened to be there... Could this be a pattern? Safe enough to bet on...?

Another cache led me to the top of a high rise, from where I had a wonderful view of the city and the bay. Another interesting experience was the singing man, whom I even got to tape. Later Miki told me that he might have been singing for the dead, since it happened to be Obon holiday, that is the Japanese days of the dead. Unfortunately I have not figured out how to post sound-files here. Another interesting sound I just had to tape, was coming from a van. You won't get to hear it, but here's a picture of the "noise makers" as Miki described them. I'd already mentioned them before, after coming back from Tokyo. I simply called them the Nazis.

Ironic, that especially in Hiroshima there should be so many of them. Nevertheless, I could hear them almost everywhere I went. Especially around peace-park they were blasting propaganda and traditional tunes from their loudspeakers. Apparently they are against all foreigners, immigration, foreign companies, foreign influence, customs and culture. They talk something about illegal laws, and how great Japan used to be in their glorious past. Still, everyone I asked refused to give me an objective answer. Between many apologies and shaking heads, they admitted embarrassedly that they are simply there to annoy people. Okay... so was I, I supposed, and stopped asking questions. Instead I am guessing my own theories, which you are welcome to do, as well.

All in all, I enjoyed my four days, out of which two were spent on the train. Coming back was not quite as enjoyable, not only because I was just one of the many Obon-travelers, but because the night before Lennart and I celebrated "last evening". We went out with Hiroshima's gaijin crowd, which was an experience in itself. It was fun. The city provides many exciting going out locations... that is coming from Shiojiri just about everything seems exciting. We hit an Okonomiyaki place first, where I got the eat the famous Hiroshima-yaki, which is sort of a crepe with noodles, cabbage, vegetables, fish-stuff, and a special sauce. Then we hit an Irish pub, where we met three other happy foreigners. Following this, we went to another bar, where about ten other gaijins came together. Finally we wet to a club, where the vibrant atmosphere, along with the reckless drinking, started to get things out of control... Eventually we finished off the night sitting by the river, drinking haposh. It was good!

All in all, it was a worthwhile experience. Quite different from the the original plan, but definitely well taken advantage of. Next free time I have is in December, the last week of the year. But before that, I'll get to be the host of two visitors in September.

Survived the Disasters / Finally Legal

I was shaken out of my sleep as the pick-up drove over the old road, dotted with pot holes and mud puddles. The driver didn't bother slowing down, and I was thrown around on the back of the truck. A hitchhiker's rugged dream... When I opened my eyes, I realized I was lying on my futon, in my Japanese apartment. So it WAS just a dream, except for the shaking, that kept going on and on. An earthquake! 'Apparently they are quite common in this part of the world,' I felt the thought creeping through my head as I slid back into my dreams, and onto the back of the pickup. It was Monday morning, my day off, and the last thing I was gonna do was miss out on my precious sleep.

The weekend had been already wrecked by the remnants of a taifun that had spent its fury in Okinawa and southern Japan. By the time it reached the protective folds of the Shinano valley, all it had in store for us were two days of constant pouring. If anyone had planned on going on a hike, like I was, they were screwed. We went to another onsen instead. It was nice to sit in the hot water, and look out at the trees, until the old men started complaining that we spent too much time hogging the water... Like there wasn't enough space for them as well in the tub. Whatever!

So as nice as the onsen was, I wanted to go on this hike to test the map. With my colleague Yanik I am planing to undertake a hike across the Japanese Alps all the way to the sea. So to make sure the hiking times on the map correspond with the time we need to complete a hike, we wanted to go on a day-trip around the village of Asahi. But the rain threw a monkey-wrench in our plans. So I wasn't gonna let a petty trembler steal my sleep.

Later I found out that this petty trembler was a 6.8 earthquake, causing death and destruction just about 100 km North from us. But it wasn't the frenzy of the local citizens or the local news that gave me this idea, but the worried e-mails I got from several parts of the world. The further these messages came from, the worse the picture seemed to be portrayed. I had to assure everyone that I was fine, and that the lawnmower outside was more an annoyance factor than these natural disasters.

Other than that I have to mention that I am finally somewhat close to being a legally acknowledged person in Japan. I have what it takes to be recognized: a visa, for which I didn't even have to go to Korea. Instead I had to take two trips to Nagano (with two weeks between them) after finally getting my “letter of eligibility”, the paper that announces another loooong waiting period, once it had been granted after 8 weeks. With my visa I could apply for a Gaijin-card, which is nothing more than a legal identification for foreigners. After three weeks I even got that, and I could finally get a cell-phone (one week waiting period), which is needed for pretty much everything else: applying for health insurance, opening a bank account, even buying a bicycle. Fortunately I found my way around the latter obstacle, so I got a bike way before I was supposed to.

But today I finally got a bank account too. I opened it up with an initial deposit of five yen (Japanese symbol of good luck and prosperity). My inquiry about a credit card was refused, as I am not staying for a full year. To be realistic, after the diverse waiting periods, the remainder of my stay has been reduced to half a year, especially since I would have to wait another month for the card, if I can convince them that I WAS gonna stay for a full year.

So I might not even be able to buy a book, or an airline ticket online. But what does this bank account offer? A cash-card I can use at local ATM's for a charge of 200 yen per transaction(!!!), and even that at restricted times. Withdrawals at night or on Sundays are out of question. So what's it all good for? To make it easier (for my school) to pay me? To help the bank get over its financial crisis? Well, I know I will withdraw everything at once, convert it into cash or USD traveler's checks.  Screw the financial institution if they are such a rip-off!

But the coolest thing about the whole issue is my bank-book. It's so Japanese it's not even funny.... or is it? Judge for yourself!

Outdoor Water Trips

Has it been almost a month already?
This is what happens once you get into the routine: time picks up pace, nothing seems to happen, at least nothing extraordinary, and before you know it the blog goes stale.

But that shouldn't be, after all there were many cool little things going on. My free-time is precious, so I make the most out of it. Even despite of the rain, that seems to break down on us during the least ideal moments, and even despite of the extra workload I was given, as an opportunity to earn some extra money in a six-day week, since two teachers had left and the new ones still have to learn the ropes.

Regardless, last Sunday we went out to an onsen. There are many hot-springs in this area, and the Japanese are just as crazy about them as anyone would be. Unfortunately, this also means that they tend to be quite developed, with a spa built around them. The one we went to is way up in the mountains, East of Matsumoto, about an hour by car from Shiojiri. According to Yanik it was one of the nicer ones, where we could sit outside, with a view over the valley. Of course it was raining again, but what better thing could you do in a weather like that, than sit outside, in a pool of hot mineral water, where you are wet already? It was five of us, Ross, Dana, Yanik, Vanessa, and me.

Driving up the winding mountain road into the clouds was quite spectacular, but just enough to set the scene for the onsen experience. The spa itself was a wooden cabin, with a small foyer to pay the 300 yen entry fee, then behind it a place to undress and put our stuff into baskets on the shelf. No lockers, or anything of that sort. It would have been untypical for Japan anyway. Armed with a soap and small hand towel, which the locals strategically hold with two hands to cover their genitalia, we marched into the shower room, to give ourselves and intensive scrub-down. Not that either of us really needed it, but it is an expected thing in Japan to demonstratively undergo a thorough cleaning session before getting into the water with others.

Finally, when we were all clean and shinny, we left the cabin and climbed into the water. It was nice and warm. The pool was surprisingly small, with just enough space for about twenty Japanese people, or four rowdy foreigners. Vanessa was not with us, as the Japanese onsen tend to be traditionally segregated, so she had to sit in the pool for women, on the other side of the fence. She didn't mind though, as she told us later. She speaks pretty good Japanese, and could interact with the locals whenever she wants to.

For our 300 yen we got to enjoy the soaking for an hour. That was just enough time to get a good view of the beautiful valley, for my hands to become wrinkled, and my silver necklace to take on an ugly shade of gray. Plus we had gotten quite hungry, and a beer sounded like a pretty good idea too. So we got out and went to Matsumoto, where we stumbled into an Indian restaurant, that turned out to be fantastic. They serve the biggest naan I have ever eaten.

This weekend we were also trying to go to an onsen, this time by bike, with Yanik and Vanessa. According to the map there is one here in our area, so we tried to find it. The weather was a little-bit better. It wasn't raining, but the air was amazingly humid. The mountains were hidden behind a thick white haze, and although the sun was technically shining, the sky was anything but blue.

The direction took us into the neighboring village of Asahi, famous for its ski slopes, its mountain trails, and its fishing grounds. When we asked people about an onsen, however, people seemed a little confused. Still, they directed us further up the hills. Eventually we found the place, but had to realize that a soaking was out of question... if not by a sudden downpour from the clouds that were hanging dangerously low. The spa had been closed for renovation. In fact, they were building a whole new one, which had not been completed yet. Too bad. So we turned around, to enjoy the downhill ride back into the valley. No success, but an awesome bike-ride. The scenery is so gorgeous in that area, that we decided to come back for a hike, and maybe camping in two weekends. I can't wait.

To complete the outdoor water experiences, Yanik and I went up to the Kiso valley today. We took the train to the famous swimming place, where the crazies jump off the rocks into the water. I had mentioned it before, but today I could see it with my own eyes, and maybe take a swim myself. It is a little bit further that I'd thought, about twice as far as the lovely village where they held the lacquer ware festival. The scenery was way more than I'd expected.

Cliffs of all shapes and sizes. A diving-board paradise, without diving boards of course. There are real low ones of one or two meters, those of medium hight, maybe five to ten meters, and then there are the amazingly tall ones of twenty, maybe thirty meters, where it is not really recommended to jump. At least not by me. But of course you won't see a disclaimer anywhere, and it is quite obvious to jump at your own risk.

I jumped... from one of lower ones. Then I immediately climbed out of the water. It was cooooold! Uncomfortably cold. Normally, once the initial shock is over, you get used to the temperature. But here, after the first few strokes my mind started conjuring up images of penguins and icicles. No fun! So I instead of swimming, I climbed around on the rocks, took some pictures and lay around in the sun, chilling. I can't wait to come again in August, or whenever it is supposed to get REALLY hot.

Life's Little Pleasures

Summer is in full swing, with only a few occasional rainy days interrupting the warm sunshine, that is supposedly so precious in these parts. The rain was something to be expected. It is June, after all, which they call the rainy month here. So be it, it's not as bad as the Mexican monsoon. When it doesn't rain, however, everybody is complaining about how hot it is, which makes me think with a slight worry about the coming winter. Because the heat is really not that bad. Somewhere around 30°C, which is very bearable. In fact, if you ask me, it is the perfect weather! And if this is "hot", how cold does it have to get for people to complain? Cause complain they will, it's in their nature. But being used to milder climates, I might reach that point way sooner than they... We'll see. But right now that seems like a distant dream to me anyway. Seeing the covered snow-blowers in people's garages, while cruising past on my bike, wiping the sweat off my forehead gives me a feeling of absurdity. Nevertheless, they are an obvious foreshadow of things to come.

Starting out my entry with a discourse about the weather makes one wonder what I'd been up to all this time. Not much, I have to admit as I sift through my memories of the set routines I have become comfortable with. teaching is getting easier and more fun, as I am getting to know my students better and better. Also, the official side of it, that is lesson plans and progress sheets, which used to be a pain, almost fill out themselves. All I need to do is hold the pen. The kids are still fun to teach, you can also see that they have become comfortable with their teacher... sometimes a bit too comfortable. Being a bit rowdy is permissible of course, as long as it doesn't keep them from learning. When it does, though, I have to act tough and restore order, maybe even threaten them that they won't get a sticker at the end of the lesson.

That usually works, as it is my signature and a funny sticker of their choice that keeps track of their attendance. When they have collected thirty, ten, or even five, they can trade them in for a little gift: maybe a cool eraser, funny looking stationary, or maybe a pencil case. They love it. So much so, that some of them have resulted to a dishonest way of obtaining them. I'd heard of cases like this before, but the other day it happened to me: I noticed how the present sheet of a little student of mine was almost full.... even though I knew I hadn't been teaching her for so long. A closer look at her sheet revealed that she had placed stickers from previous present sheets with scotch-tape into the empty spaces, along with a fake date and MY FORGED SIGNATURE. I couldn't believe it! It was well forged too. And she is just six years old!!! In fifteen years she might be working for government intelligence, or maybe against it if she's really good.

As far as my free time goes, I am still trying to make the most of it, even though the famous tourist attractions of the area seem to have been covered. So on weekends I like to just go on bike rides, and get an immediate impression of our beautiful valley. It is really not that big. Going up to Hotaka, where the wasabi farm is, takes maybe two hours, Matsumoto only one. Along the way there are nice looking orchards and vineyards, fields and rice paddies, where you can see farmers spraying vast amounts of pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Ugh, how disillusioning! On one hand Japanese people are scared of the low quality, "poison" food that the US is trying to export to them, on the other they are all about chemistry themselves. I have yet to find an organic farm here. So what can you do, but become self subsistent?

I have decided that the first step of growing my own food should be something easy, yet delicious. So I set up a flower-box outside my window with a few plants of basil, and two tomato ones. Surpassing my expectations, they started growing like there is no tomorrow. For the past few weeks I've been harvesting a bunch of basil every week, to satisfy my craving for pesto. The recipe is part improvised, part inspired by ideas from the internet. In a small hand-mortar I grind garlic, walnuts, a bit of salt, olive oil (extra virgin), Parmesan cheese, and of course my own lovely basil. However, by now the amount of basil is so great, that I will start making pesto for others, possibly with a food-processor. Also, I have heard that there is a store that sells real pine-nuts, which got me excited. Fellow teachers have expressed their interests, and even my boss, Nagahara-san, asked me if I could make some for her... So next week we'll have a pasta-pesto session. (Yeah!)

The tomatoes are growing well too, though they are still green. As it seems, there'll be way more of them too than I'd expected. To top off this list of home-made culinary delights, I have started making my own yogurt. It is easier than you'd think. All you need is milk... and yogurt. That's the live cultures of bacteria that had been passed on through generations and generations... of bacteria -- or who knows, maybe even people. I got my first yogurt from my colleague Yanik, who has received it from Kaori, the teacher who took us to the tea ceremony. The sample he gave me was not bigger than an ice-cube. I put it in a carton of fresh milk, covered it with a towel, and let it sit at room temperature for 36 hours. Voila, a liter of milk became a liter of yogurt. I poured it into my ice-cube tray for further projects, and ate the rest with fruit and granola. Right now I am making my fourth batch. Not only does it reduce the cost of my groceries, but it tastes a whole lot better. Not to mention that it is "pure"... well, as pure as the milk at least. Never mind. I still like it.

Kiso, and the Quest for an Inro

After hearing that I was in Japan, a friend of mine in Hungary asked me if I could send him a special item. It's a so called inro, and it seems to be virtually impossible to find anywhere else. He practices two martial art forms, iaido and jodo, the former of which is the art of wielding the katana, the ancient long sword of the samurai. The inro, he asked me for, is simply a small wooden case on a string, with three or four compartments. In the old days people used to tie it to their belts to carry medicine, tobacco, or other small items in it, as the traditional Japanese clothing had no pockets. My friend wants to keep the cleaning kit for his katana in it: a dry cloth, an oily one, and a piece of leather. He sent me a very good description of what kind of inro he wanted, approximately what size, color, design, and cost. So I was very confident to find the best one at the famous lacquer ware festival in Kiso, that just happened to be on the first weekend on June.

Kiso itself is worth a visit, even when there is no lacquer ware festival. There are several villages that take pride in being in the "Kiso" valley, situated between two awesomely steep mountain ranges, with a wild flowing river in between. The mountains are covered with different types of trees, which reflect the sunlight in various shades of green, even if the sky is slightly overcast like it was during our visit. From the train we could get a few short glimpses of breathtaking scenery, water cascading down steep rocks, flowing on into deep rapids, before taking another thirty meter plunge into the next pool. I knew next time I had to come back by bike. Supposedly there is also a place where people go swimming and diving off the cliffs. Sounds exciting, although the person who told me about it, is the same one who snowboarded down mount Fuji the other weekend. EXXX-treme!!!

This time, however, I was driven by other aims. I knew my friend Dana was up for a cultural experience, so I asked him to join me. As soon as we got off the train we were rewarded with a lovely view of picturesque streets, old style hoses, and a multitude of shoppers and vendors in between. We didn't mind them, as it was the festival we had come to see. Following the crowd we observed the stalls with their bowls, tables, chopsticks, and other lacquer ware handicrafts.

At one store, which had an especially wide selection of items, I asked about an inro. The answer was an apologetic smile, and that they didn't have any. I was offered a really nice looking katana instead, and a story about Takeda Shingen. With my meager Japanese, however, I only understood the name of the famous warlord who had conquered the valley in the 16th century. My guess is that the katana he was trying to sell me was an authentic replica of Lord Takeda's sword, and had I been interested in buying it, he might have included a lacquered arm-rest as well. The latter item is really nothing more than a fancy looking piece of furniture, made for the chairless culture of sitting on the tatami. Even here, people want to lean on something, especially having taken a few deep looks into the sake-cup. Who knows, that arm-rest might also have been Takeda's, who was a big fan of sake.

We walked on to look for an inro elsewhere, but unfortunately everywhere I asked, the answer was no. We found some fantastic looking chopsticks though, for a surprisingly cheap price! As we continued down the small street, the town slowly came to an end, but the next one, Naraijuku, was just a stone's throw further, so we followed the road.

If the first town was interesting looking, the next one was amazing. There, we almost felt like thrown back into the times when the Kiso valley had been an important connection between the Imperial capital Kyoto, and the shogun's capital Edo (which later became Tokyo). In those days Naraijuku was a post-town, with a temple on each side, and many inns for common travelers, honjin for lords and dignitaries, and waki-honjin for those somewhere in between. We could almost feel the hustle and bustle of the busy post-town in the hustle and bustle of the lacquer ware festival. Of course I kept asking for an inro, but once again I was told to look for it elsewhere. Fortunately, however, the friendly shopkeeper gave me a map and explained me where I could find one. I was happy.

Once I got to the house he'd pointed out, I became skeptical. Something was not right. Although the kanji characters of the name seemed to be the same as the ones he'd circled on the map, the place was obviously a café. Nevertheless I walked in, and asked the friendly lady behind the counter about inro. After a long explanation, she made me understand that I'd come to the right business, but the wrong branch. Apparently they also had another store, about five minutes from there, where they sold inro. (YEAH!!!) She showed me on the map exactly where it was, and gave me a business card just in case. I was superbly excited. So much so, that I didn't think much about her pointing to the telephone number on the card, and expressing her deepest, most sincere apologies.

As soon as we left we café, we found ourselves in the middle of a procession. Latter we learned that this was the royal tea procession. Because the shogun wanted to enjoy the same quality tea as the emperor, every year the royal tea containers were carried down to Kyoto and then back to Edo. We looked at the procession with awe unable to say much. The costumes were so striking, that I didn't mind letting the gaijin-tourist hang out, and take as many pictures as I could.






Once the procession had passed, we continued looking for the inro place. No more than a few blocks furthere, however, we stopped at a stand where they were selling wine. Of course we had to try. It was not bad. The red one was a little sweet, but the white wine was delicious. Only after finishing our glasses, and enjoying the babblings of the local old man (friendly, nevertheless, but drunk as a brush binder), did we notice the sign that advertised our little town: Shiojiri. Go figure, if there is a place famous for its wine, then it's ours! The attendant was also quite happy to meet some people from his town, even if they were foreign English teachers. His English was quite good, and when we told them where we worked (above Nagahara's Liquor Store) he even gave us a glass of white wine on the house, and we toasted to Shiojiri.

 Quite happy from the nice encounter, and the wine, we set out to finally find the place where they had inro. Of course I immediately understood why the lady in the café was apologizing so much, when I saw that the store was obviously closed. Bummer. Never mind. We went back to walk through the town again, and hopefully find something to eat. In the meantime I stopped by some other stores, and eventually I was told that they didn't make any inro  in the Kiso valley any more. It's a thing from the old days, and demand has gone down so much that there was no point in selling them any more. I obviously couldn't hide my disappointment, because the lady in the store brought out some tea for us, chatted a bit about things I couldn't grasp, and finally gave us what looked like tombola tickets. She even told us where to go to pick up our winnings.

The tombola was very straight forward. We handed in our tickets, picked a number, and were rewarded with two sets of beautiful lacquered chopsticks. Nice. Now, we really became hungry. Ordering food in a nearby noodle shop was not easy, as the menu was all in Japanese, but eventually we each got a bowl of hot soup with soba noodles. It was pretty good. After leaving the restaurant, I spotted what looked like an antique store. I walked up to the guy, and tried for the last time to buy an inro. And guess what, he even had one! It was small, with four compartments, which might not have been big enough to store a piece of cloth or leather in it. However, the inro had a beautiful design, carved out of ivory, and its origin went back to the Meiji era. Not surprisingly, the price was a tad bit high for my taste.

I felt beaten... after looking for an inro all day, this is what I found? Too bad. But there's gotta be one somewhere! Maybe if I call the number on the business card I got, I could custom order one. Or maybe get one somewhere else. Or maybe check what e-bay has to offer? The latter one might actually be a good idea. So I didn't feel that bad after all. Despite of my futile search, the day was interesting, and I will definitely come back to Kiso soon.